Track your Pokémon card collection.

English Pokemon collecting starts with the 1999 Base Set printed by Wizards of the Coast, followed by Jungle, Fossil, Base Set 2, Team Rocket, the Gym sets, and the Neo era. These releases from 1999 to 2003 are the vintage core of the hobby. Printing variants matter here more than in almost any other category. First edition cards carry a stamp, shadowless cards from the earliest Base Set print lack the drop shadow behind the art box, and unlimited cards are the most common printing. The same card in three printings is three different collectibles.

The modern era runs through Sun and Moon, Sword and Shield, and Scarlet and Violet. Modern chase cards are the special illustration rares, illustration rares, full arts, and alternate arts, where the artwork and the character do most of the work. Sealed product and singles are both collected, but for a tracked collection the detail lives in singles, where set, number, printing, and grade define each card.

The category has its own oversupply trap. Many sets from the mid 2000s through today were printed in large quantities, and most cards in any modern set are commons and uncommons that stay inexpensive no matter how clean they are. Wizards era cards have also been reprinted and reissued over the years, so a card that looks vintage is not automatically scarce. Record the exact set and printing so a common does not get mistaken for a key.

Pokemon cards are graded most often by PSA, with CGC and BGS also active in the category. A grader assigns a numeric condition grade and seals the card in a slab. Centering, edges, corners, and surface all factor in, and Pokemon holos are notoriously hard on centering and surface, so two copies of the same card can grade far apart. Because the grade moves value so much, it is worth recording the grader and the grade for every slab you own.

Raw cards are still very collectible, especially clean Wizards era holos and modern chase cards held outside a slab. Track condition honestly on raw cards rather than guessing a grade they have not earned. A common pitfall is paying to grade inexpensive modern cards, where the grading fee can exceed what the slab adds. Record what you actually hold, graded or raw, so your collection view stays complete and your cost basis stays accurate.

For each card, record the set, the year, the card number, the printing variant, the grade, the condition, and what you paid. The printing variant is the field collectors most often skip and most often regret skipping, since first edition, shadowless, and unlimited copies of the same Base Set card are distinct. Note the grader on every slab.

Cost basis is the number that makes a collection a portfolio. Enter what you paid so CardGhost can show gain or loss against the value you assign. Counterfeits are a real hazard in this category, especially for high profile Wizards era holos, so verify a card before you record it as a key and lean on graded copies when authenticity matters. Value framing here is historical and educational. You set each card's value as of a date, and you update it when your read changes.

CardGhost breaks your Pokemon collection out by set and by grade. By set, your Base Set holos sit together, your Neo cards sit together, and your Scarlet and Violet chase cards sit together, so you can see how each era contributes to the total. By grade, your PSA and CGC and BGS slabs group by number, which is where most of the value concentrates and where you can see your high grade pieces at a glance.

Everything totals into one collection value with cost basis and gain or loss, and CardGhost tracks how that total moves over time as you update the values you enter. It is one organized list, private to your account, sorted the way collectors actually think about Pokemon. It is a tracker, not a price feed.